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Cape Verde
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On the 16th of January, 1832, we anchored at Porto Praya, in St. Jago, the chief island of the Cape de Verd archipelago...
...The scene, as beheld through the hazy atmosphere of this climate, is one of great interest; if, indeed, a person, fresh from sea, and who has just walked, for the first time, in a grove of cocoa-nut trees, can be a judge of anything but his own happiness.
...Charles Darwin |
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The Cape Verde Islands are located in the mid-Atlantic
Ocean some 450 kilomters (about 300 miles) off the west coast of Africa. The
archipelago includes ten islands and 5 islets, divided into the windward (Barlavento) and leeward (Sotavento) groups.
The main islands in the Barlavento group are:
- Santo Antão (St. Antonio)
- São Vincente (St. Vincento)
- Santa Luzia (St. Lucia)
- São Nicolau (St. Nicolas)
- Sal (means "salt" for its huge salt reserve)
- Boa Vista (means "Good View").
Those of the Sotavento group are:
- Maio (named for the month it was discovered
- Santiago (formerly St. Jago)
- Fogo (means "Fire" and has a big volcano)
- Brava
Charles Darwin realized that the sand that covered many
of the islands were carried from the Sahara Desert. He was able to figure out the
direction of the winds by observing that:
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The volcano on Fogo burned almost continuously from 1500 AD to 1760 AD and served as
a beacon to mariners.

Darwin explored St. Jago's inland area during his three-week stay in Cape Verde.
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"on a small plain which we crossed, a few
stunted acacias were growing; their tops had been bent by the steady trade-wind, in a
singular manner -- some of them even at right angles to their trunks. The direction of
the branches was exactly N. E. by N., and S. W. by S., and these natural vanes must
indicate the prevailing direction of the force of the trade-wind."
We discussed how some ships that we might come across
would not be as they seemed. Although slavery and slave-trading was outlawed in
Cape Verde, slave ships often sailed in the area, as well as pirate ships. Both
slave ships and pirate ships could easily disguise themselves as whaling ships.
For more information about pirates, please look at the following links:
- Read about
- An exhibit at the New Bedford Whaling Museum looks at
slave ships disguised as whale ships
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Below is a letter from Frank Barrows of the US National Park Service about the
music of Cape Verde:
I do know that Cape Verdean music evolved as a blend of violins from
Portugal, rhythms from Africa, and instruments such as "mazurkas"
(spelling?) from Europe. The African side of the music was suppressed by
the Portuguese and had to be hidden in many instances. On the island of
Sao Tiago, Cape Verdeans would disguise the rhythm of their music in
creative ways, such as grinding corn to the beat. You didn't necessarily
have to have an instrument either, many Cape Verdeans would just drum on
their body parts or any surface that would create a beat. I remember that
my great uncle would always drum on his leg whenever he heard any kind of
music. Since CV gained its independence in 1975, there has been a
resurgence of African influenced CV music.
When I visited Cape Verde three years ago I met these four guys on the
beach in Sao Vicente. One of them started rapping in Kriolu, then one by
one, they would chime in to contribute. One of them picked up an empty
milk carton on the beach and put it between his legs and started drumming,
the next picked up a stick and an empty coke bottle and ran the stick along
the ridges of the bottle to create a rhythm, then the fourth started
singing background vocals. It was one of the most amazing things I've ever
seen--totally improvised--and is sounded unbelievable--I wish I would have
recorded it. But it illustrates the creativity and importance of music in
Cape Verde. Music is also important in this country for Cape Verdeans
because it's a link to the old country and a way to retain the Cape Verdean
identity.
I hope this was helpful, let me know if I can help you in any other way.
Best,
Frank Barrows
New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park>
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